Manish Arora. Images by Brandie Raasch.

Peachoo Datwani and Roy Krejberg of Peachoo + Krejberg are known for dark, otherworldly collections that stir the audience to its core. Naturally, Fall 2012 was no exception. From models in twinkling hand-beaded dresses and tops to buttery leather accouterments to the ethereal beings who glided down the runway cocooned in feather headdresses, the collection left the audience with chills. Dossier caught up with Roy after to the show to discuss the collection.

Katharine Zarrella: Can you tell me a bit about your inspiration this season?
Roy Krejberg: We actually had an idea of an abstract mutation between human beings and animals, as if some women got lost in nature and they came out half-human, half-animal.
Katharine: Is that where those feather pieces came from?
Roy: Yes. We constructed them with bits and pieces of iron and wire and then the feathers are sewn onto that base.
Katharine: What materials did you work with other than the feathers?
Roy: We worked with a lot of silks and a lot of the wools—very drapey, superfine wools. We worked with goat fur and with shearling. We always like to have this contrast between fabrics and materials. So we used the leather, which is very shiny and smooth together, with more structured fabrics. We always love that play between different textures and structures.
Katharine: Those beaded pieces were a nice contrast to the leather as well.
Roy: They were all completely hand-done. Each piece takes 100 hours to make.
Katharine: What experience did you hope to create for those of us at the show tonight?
Roy: I hope that we evoked emotion. Positive emotion.
Katharine: What was at the heart of this collection?
Roy: That we should feel good in these times when everybody is complaining. That’s what we wanted to show in what we did.

Peachoo + Krejberg

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Manish Arora

Peachoo + Krejberg

Images by Paola Foresti

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Color images by Paola Foresti. Black-and-white images by Paolo Simi.

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All images by Maya Villiger

In an ocean of bloggers infatuated with JPEG hoarding and outlandish fashion, Maya Villiger is transfixed by simplicity. Featuring a daily locomotive of dreamy, original street style and a smattering of inspirational trend collages—which are now being commissioned by Grazia.it—she has created a new, evocative dimension of personal style coverage. And she chronicles it all on her blog Turned Out.

“I like the idea of not having too many things, but for [those things] to all fit well and work together, a sort of perfect and personal uniform,” explains Maya as she muses over her preference for menswear over womenswear. Lauren Hutton and Ali McGraw are among her greatest style influences, and the subjects of Maya’s photographs all possess an inexplicable undone charm: part-minimalist, part-tomboy—and universally precocious. Clean-faced, nonchalant style aside, the subject also has to possess a certain je ne sais quoi. “Each one is linked by an intriguing presence,” she says. “I like pictures that are based in some kind of reality but allow space for the viewer to dream about the person—I like to feel the girl more than the clothes.”

Maya’s interest in street style, and photography as a whole, was the result of the native New Zealander’s move to Manhattan. “I loved looking at people on the street, and I wanted to capture and share what I was seeing,” she recalls. Her first picture was a Parisian girl wearing a black mini dress taken on her phone, and more recently: a back view of Turned Out regular Ann dressed in a copper Arnsdorf jumpsuit. Whether the fashion on display is a lovingly laundered black t-shirt or the perfect take on a grey marl sweater, it is Maya’s magpie vision for details that has set her apart from the crowd.

After four busy fashion weeks, the photographer tells me she is feeling the dropped shoulders at Prada and wide shoes at Christopher Kane. This fall, she looks forward to wearing flares, crewneck sweaters and Balenciaga miniskirts. And the future beyond fashion? “I want to have a family. I am excited to develop my work, as I am beginning to get a feel for what I am searching for in my photos. I look forward to 20 years from now when my early street work has dated—I want this collection of photos. I want a lifelong career at this.”

Backstage at Vena Cava, Nicholas K. Images by Shawn Brackbill.

New York fashion week begins with Beat influences at Vena Cava, reinvented classics at Tim Hamilton and angsty glamour at Nicholas K—all topped off by the spooky scene at Dominic Louis

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Nicholas K

Tim Hamilton

Dominic Louis

Images by Matteo Cherubino

Far from the bloggers, PRs, models, free drinks and sea of fashion followers, White Homme is where the actual business of fashion takes place.

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Images by Matteo Cherubino

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Images by Paolo Simi

Busy streets outside, stolen moments inside at Armani and Prada.

Backstage at Armani

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Backstage at Prada

Images by Matteo Cherubino

Jil Sander’s layered brights, Ermenegildo Zegna‘s burnished classics and endearing cultural stereotypes, all back lit by Milan’s signature gray haze and cigarette smoke.

Jil Sander

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Ermenegildo Zegna

Subjects from iwanttobeher: Lavagna Girl and Kate

Reviewing the new style site iwanttobeher, I developed a number of girl crushes—one on the “Cute Barneys Girl,” another on the “Late 50s Beatnik.” I both want to be them, as the site’s name declares, and be friends with them. It is a sentiment of sisterhood that I find often trumps rivalry when it comes to style, which makes sense since iwanttobeher is the creation of two childhood friends: former Lucky Magazine Creative Director Andrea Linett and illustrator/designer Anne Johnston Albert.

Mixing their artistic talents, Anne—who designs the womenswear line Martin—sketches Andrea’s visions of female archetypes and inspirations that she “wants to be,” or the pair sets up a photoshoot with their muse. As Andrea explains, “Some [of the women], I’ve spotted walking around, some I’ve conjured up in my head, some are illustrated by Anne from my notebook scratchings and others [are] photographed.”

The resulting digital “notebook” looks something like a charming yearbook, and is an absurdly refreshing alternative to what have become ubiquitous street style sites. Also, Andrea’s Lucky shopping stripes come through via links to places where you can shop for items similar to those featured on the women you want to be.