Images by John de Lima

Ashish whisked us away on a magical tour through Central Asia and the fictional fashionland of “Ashishistan” for fall. According to the show notes, our heroine is “an oligarch’s daughter…who recently gave up winters spent huddled round a yak dung fire for lazy days in the Mediterranean sunshine with the Abramovitchs as neighbors. And yet as autumn approaches, her mind turns to home.”

This translated as chunky knits thrown over slinky sequined eveningwear; full dirndl skirts and harem pants with generous paperbag waistlines; and lots of bright pixelated patterns inspired by Turkmen rugs, which made the collection pop in the way only Ashish knows how.

Mannish coats and trousers in heavy tweeds contrasted with finer silks and sexy nightwear. Hair was woven with pink or green and loosely plaited over one shoulder, and there was a grungy, early ’90s feel to the styling, with sloppy beanie hats, fingerless gloves and plenty of slouchy layering.

Despite the fantastical storytelling and eclectic references, this was actually a surprisingly wearable collection. The skillful mix of daywear and eveningwear, and masculine and feminine cues made for an artfully thrown together, mismatched look that felt totally modern.

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Backstage at the Ashish S/S10 show

At the London firm Village Press’ recent press day, among renowned labels like Kenzo, Clergerie and Fillipa K, young designer Ashish’s sequined, studded S/S10 pieces caught my eye. Ironic and exhibiting an artful eye for color, Ashish’s interpretation and execution of the Balmain and Wang staples evolved them from self-conscious to sharp, sometimes literally.

Taking inspiration from a beach holiday, the collection exudes the fun and exuberance of an exotic escape. Vivid blue hues contrast with tougher black, and the unexpected appearance of piercing shoulder studs recalls a rock star’s party-fueled paradise. The designer’s use of tropical flower prints, parrots and peace signs reiterates a jestful vibe, which is emphasized by the addition of several tongue-in-cheek sayings. Reminiscent of Henry Holland’s message tees, they read, “Life is a beach” “Same old chic” and “Italians do it better”. A black visor and sequined fanny-pack serve as accessories for this high-fashion take on the quintessential tourist uniform. Other particular favorites include an acid-wash denim jacket complete with studded sleeves, a sequined parrot halter dress with black fringing and beads and a bevy of the tapered, cropped and tie-dyed trousers.

Images courtesy of dazeddigital.