Images by Hatnim Lee

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Topshop

Craig Lawrence

Ashish

Ashish. Images by Cara Stricker. Text by Katharine Zarrella.

Show: Ashish
Date: September 17, 2011
Time: 11am
Venue: BFC Catwalk
Inspiration: Flowers, chintzy Laura Ashley curtains and vintage grannie scarves
Music: Church bells at the beginning, Tears for Fears’ “Everybody Wants to Rule The World” at the end, with smoky, jazzy beats and a ukulele in between.
Favorite Look: 
A billowy white French marigold print maxi-dress, paired with a sequined brick-print blazer, black combat boots stuffed with real daises and a simple straw fedora.
Additional Notes: While each daisy and sunflower painted on Ashish’s sequined collection radiated sunny optimism, the designer noted that he looked to flowers because he was “feeling romantic, a bit sad and melancholic.” However, despite his mellow mood (it should be noted that the designer was chipper as ever backstage after the show), Ashish’s collection of baggy sequined shorts, high-waisted poppy-embellished oversized jeans, brick-print jackets and sometimes sex-kitten, sometimes bohemian flower frocks left his audience smiling. The black combat boots stuffed with real daisies, which accompanied each look, gave the collection a grungy ’90s feel, although the designer’s intention was for the boots to add pagan overtones. Of his spring woman, Ashish says, “I think she’s fun and tough.” Judging by the clothes, she’s the perfect balance of both.

Show: House of Holland
Date: September 17, 2011
Time: 4pm
Venue: The Dairy
Inspiration: Skins and Punks, ska revival and a South Beach/Miami palette
Music: Bad Manners’ “Skinhead Girl,” “Bam Bam” by Sister Nancy, “Too Much Too Young” by The Specials and a range of other ska tunes mixed by The Misshapes
Favorite Look: Pale blue bleach-splattered high-waisted jeans with snakeskin suspenders and a color-blocked purple, peach and minty green blouse.
Additional Notes: Henry Holland’s pastel punk extravaganza was an upbeat display of looks made for a good girl gone bad and, perhaps, gone good again. Black oversized leopard spots were sprayed across pink, lavender, sherbet or aqua jeans, jumpsuits, flirty frocks and a pleated degradér maxi gown. Sweet rock ‘n’ roll dresses were paired with ripped fishnets and snakeskin accents popped in the form of suspenders, belts and smart collars. The “House of Holland tartan,” was revived on schoolgirl skirts and playful suiting, and a pair of snakeskin pants that zipped off into short-shorts were especially hardcore. One particularly cheeky model in a sheer fishnet top treated the audience to a wink before sticking out her tongue. And the devilish smile that crept up her face as she strutted back up the runway emblemized the giggling punkette at the heart of Henry’s collection.

Show: Craig Lawrence
Date: September 17, 2011
Time: 2:15 pm
Venue: The Portico Rooms at Somerset House
Inspiration: Martin Parr’s photographs of the British seaside and, according to the British Fashion Council, a bit of vajazzling
Music: None, rather descriptions of each detailed look echoed over the speakers
Favorite Look: A sheer metallic-rose gold knit gown with Swarovski-embelished, high-waisted panties.
Additional Notes: In a palette of rose gold, cream and sea foam, Craig Lawrence’s seaside-inspired spring featured tactile hand-knit sweaters and dresses, paired with chunky ribbed leggings or gold textured tights and slashed swimming caps. From cool tunics that were knit to look as though they were made from chainmail to the striated body-con finale look, whose loose threads gave it a distressed, carefree summer vibe, the designer’s collection was as cool and serene as a stroll down a misty beach.

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House of Holland

Craig Lawrence

Images by John de Lima

Ashish whisked us away on a magical tour through Central Asia and the fictional fashionland of “Ashishistan” for fall. According to the show notes, our heroine is “an oligarch’s daughter…who recently gave up winters spent huddled round a yak dung fire for lazy days in the Mediterranean sunshine with the Abramovitchs as neighbors. And yet as autumn approaches, her mind turns to home.”

This translated as chunky knits thrown over slinky sequined eveningwear; full dirndl skirts and harem pants with generous paperbag waistlines; and lots of bright pixelated patterns inspired by Turkmen rugs, which made the collection pop in the way only Ashish knows how.

Mannish coats and trousers in heavy tweeds contrasted with finer silks and sexy nightwear. Hair was woven with pink or green and loosely plaited over one shoulder, and there was a grungy, early ’90s feel to the styling, with sloppy beanie hats, fingerless gloves and plenty of slouchy layering.

Despite the fantastical storytelling and eclectic references, this was actually a surprisingly wearable collection. The skillful mix of daywear and eveningwear, and masculine and feminine cues made for an artfully thrown together, mismatched look that felt totally modern.

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Backstage at the Ashish S/S10 show

At the London firm Village Press’ recent press day, among renowned labels like Kenzo, Clergerie and Fillipa K, young designer Ashish’s sequined, studded S/S10 pieces caught my eye. Ironic and exhibiting an artful eye for color, Ashish’s interpretation and execution of the Balmain and Wang staples evolved them from self-conscious to sharp, sometimes literally.

Taking inspiration from a beach holiday, the collection exudes the fun and exuberance of an exotic escape. Vivid blue hues contrast with tougher black, and the unexpected appearance of piercing shoulder studs recalls a rock star’s party-fueled paradise. The designer’s use of tropical flower prints, parrots and peace signs reiterates a jestful vibe, which is emphasized by the addition of several tongue-in-cheek sayings. Reminiscent of Henry Holland’s message tees, they read, “Life is a beach” “Same old chic” and “Italians do it better”. A black visor and sequined fanny-pack serve as accessories for this high-fashion take on the quintessential tourist uniform. Other particular favorites include an acid-wash denim jacket complete with studded sleeves, a sequined parrot halter dress with black fringing and beads and a bevy of the tapered, cropped and tie-dyed trousers.

Images courtesy of dazeddigital.