What could we possibly expect from Viktor & Rolf other than an outrageous, conceptual runway spectacle?

This season the designers lived up to their showman reputations with a display of mammoth proportions. Literally. After an elongated pause between the ceremonious dimming of the lights and the blaring of the music, Kristen McMenamy emerged wearing a massive tweed-and-fur coat that appeared to be at least five times her size. Horsting and Snoeren followed solemnly in their signature matching suits and glasses, and the trio stopped at a revolving disk in the center of the runway.

As the platform slowly spun, the designers undressed McMenamy to reveal layers upon layers upon layers of looks. One by one, models masked in black sunglasses, baseball caps and boned corsets—some of which had shimmering snakeskin sequin detailing—took their posts on the platform to be dressed in McMenamy’s shed skins. Once Horsting and Snoeren had styled them to perfection, they sprung to life down the runway! The whole process was reversed midway through the show, and poor McMenamy was dressed up all over again, this time wearing the silver accordion bustle of the always dramatic finale gown as a cape.

What was most marvelous about this show was not the performance aspect. That was—as I mentioned—to be expected. It was the fact that the rich fox furs, slick lapelled jackets, sheer beaded tunics and belted sweaters were so smart, sexy and shockingly wearable, despite the fact that they had to both fit the slight models and stretch over McMenamy’s padding. It was at once conceptual and commercial. And that, ladies and gentleman, is one of the most impressive tricks we have seen from Viktor & Rolf to date.