Fall/Winter 2009/10

Danish designer Stine Goya is keeping herself very busy this summer. In addition to presenting her Spring/Summer 2010 collection at this week’s Copenhagen Fashion Week, she’s working on a collaboration with Swedish label Weekday, which drops this autumn, and will be participating in a charity event called Tunes on Fashion: a medley of fashion and live musical acts with proceeds going to Red Barnet, the Danish branch of Save the Children.

A Central Saint Martins print design grad and recent recipient of the Dansk Fashion Award for Best Danish Design Talent, Goya worked for Danish fashion magazine Cover before launching her independent womenswear label in 2007 and names this editorial experience as key in shaping her point of view as a designer. “My time as fashion editor has definitely influenced my approach to fashion design, in that it was a unique opportunity to understand fashion not in the context of an introverted creative process, but rather in the personal interpretation of fashion by the wearer,” she says. “For me, it’s important that each piece has a versatility that ensures that it’s relevant to the collection—in the artistic context of a photo series and in an integration with the diversity of a person’s wardrobe.”

For Fall/Winter 2009/10, her Black Spectacle collection mined the dark side of the performing arts. The world of “burlesque, masquerade and drag have influenced the collection,” she explains, “which is altogether more heavily saturated in rich colors and metallics; playing across tighter lines than I have previously shown.” While prints remain a defining feature, they are “more subdued, with black, grey and dark purple nuances.”

Goya describes her label as best suited for women who “like to express a little eccentricity in their outward experience,” but she eschews outlining an exact design philosophy, as she “doesn’t want to operate within a rigid framework.” With this in mind, the designer prepares her upcoming collection, striving as she does in every collection for renewal whilst developing what she calls “an interplay between linear and volume revolving around the female form, as well as a dedication to functional clothing with a high level of craftsmanship.”