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Paris Fashion Week – Spring 2011

Damir Doma. Images by Spela Kasal. Text by Polina Aronova.

A few initial notes and images from Paris Fashion Week, including Rick Owens, Gareth Pugh, Taralis and more….

I landed at Paris-Charles De Gaulle Airport on a typical gray French morning, but neither the weather nor the snail-paced traffic winding into the city could bring me down. Upon arriving up at my friend Dawn’s apartment, which is located directly above Toraya (my favorite Japanese teahouse), my spirits soared.

I spent the next hour opening invitations, unpacking and getting ready for my first dose of Paris Fashion Week: the Carven presentation. Charming and chic, Spring 2011 marked designer Guillaume Henry’s third collection for the over 50-year-old brand. Presented in Carven’s office, the designer talked me through his pieces, which were envisioned for a young Classics student losing her way in the Antiquities Department of the Louvre, then traveling to far-off lands to explore the real artifacts on her own. She’s a traditional girl who wears shrunken cardigans tied around her shoulders, but she has an edge—as seen in her penchant for cutouts that emphasize the female form. It was difficult to pick a favorite look, but I very much loved those with detailed volume.

My good friend Bertrand then graciously picked me up on his scooter and we zipped along the Seine, across town to the The Palais Omnisports de Paris-Bercy to watch the film presenting Gareth Pugh’s collection. Created in collaboration with Ruth Hogben of SHOWstudio, the 11-minute movie starred model Kristen McMenamy walking and dancing in a kaleidoscope of looks for the coming season—shape, silhouette, and volume being the defining factors. It was general seating, but most people (a number of major editors included) stood on the sidelines.

As the sun started to set, I hopped back on the scooter and sped towards the storied Musee National d’Histoire Naturelle for the Damir Doma show. Entering along a gravel path, through a small garden at twilight set a magical and mysterious tone. Inside, we were ushered into the Gallery of Minerals, a long hallway lined with glass-paned cupboards filled with stones and crystals. While the young designer has already received acclaim for his menswear, his second foray into womenswear explored a softer, earthier aesthetic. The opening series of sunrise orange silks communicated a sense of airiness and ease that transitioned into a neutral palette of black and stone. A spot of sportiness was introduced with cropped tees and racerback tops, exposing skin without revealing too much. Also on display were the previously seen trends of transparency and jackets bearing Eastern influences.

Backstage at Rick Owens.

Click “Read More” for additional images.

Rick Owens

Images by Speal Kasal

Gareth Pugh

Images by Polina Aronova

Damir Doma

Images by Spela Kasal

Taralis

Images by Spela Kasal

Carven

Images by Polina Aronova

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