Backstage at Gucci. Gucci images by Paolo Simi.
A few highlights so far: Gucci, Pucci, Jil Sander and Dead Meat.
Gucci’s Spring 2011 collection was summed up by the house’s Creative Director Frida Giannini as the following:
“This is the result of a search for a sophisticated elegance that creates a new aesthetic for the Gucci woman; always strong and self-assured, she loves to provoke and seduce with smart irony, playing with strong colors and precious materials, distinguishing herself with her modern Amazon attitude.” The clothing emphasized Frida’s creed, prompting the following dictations:
-We don’t have any time to waste
-Ethnic versus urban is no longer a dichotomy, but a vivid dialogue manifested in modern silhouettes constructed from embroidered textiles and Moroccan references
-High-wasted tulip skirts and harem pants
-One-piece tuxedos with masculine undertones and jewelery set in the neckline
-Crystal embroideries, silk tassels, metallic stiletto heels and python detailing
Dead Meat is a factory more than a fashion brand, and the atmosphere at their headquarters is a mix between irony and surrealism. Many people are fascinated by this, as evidenced by the comments left on the brand’s Facebook fanpage by, well, fans looking to collaborate. Defined by the mantra: “In the images era, they recognize this incredible power,” the group has many works in progress. Clothes, however, are their primary vehicle of expression and DM, presented this fashion week, is the name of Dead Meat’s first women’s collection. Check out some of the looks below. -Silvia Bergomi
For spring, Raf Simons made Jil Sander soft and maximized. Oversized and elongated silhouettes were manifested in shocking pink, purple and magenta, fire red, toxic green, and yellow and orange—off-set by traditional knit or woven black and white. The super-sized pants combined with mini shirts, while bodies floated like hot-air balloons. The focus, however, was the color’s vibrancy, enhanced by the specially engineered fabrics and advanced finishing techniques, which combined cotton-silk blends, techno taffeta, silky nylon and techno gabardines into comfort. -Elisa Lusso
Gold details on the vaults and door frames, and crystals cascading from the roof make Palazzo Serbelloni one of Milan’s most stunning show settings—and the ideal background for the Spring 2011 Emilio Pucci girl, who was headed out of the bourgeois building on her way to enjoy a casual and carefree summer. She’s a voyager but, as her wardrobe indicates, she’s not one to leave luxury behind. This season’s wares, as proposed by Creative Director Peter Dundas, emphasized her love of long proportions, mixing suede, python, and deerskin with handpainted Pucci details. Signature prints, meanwhile, are bleached and hand-dyed in batik patterns on ultra-fine cotton voile, silk and jersey, emphasizing a seasonal free spirit. -Elisa Lusso
Emilio Pucci images by Simona Romani.
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Images by Emanuele Fontanesi.