Dossier Journal: Style » Milan Fashion Week

Backstage at Blumarine. Image by Paolo Simi

Max Mara, Henrik Vibskov’s Milan debut and more…

I personally like Henrik Vibskov a lot, not simply because he is a truly talented designer, artist and performer, but because I love the atmosphere he creates at each of his shows. For his Milan womenswear debut, he decorated a rather sparse space with signature wood compositions, which this time around turned out to be large brown screens placed smack in the center of the catwalk. This off-beat sensibility translated even to the crowd, which—as opposed to the expected working professionals—contained a diverse group of young Milanese. The result was an engaging scene reminiscent of a London club and recalling the designer’s history in the Big Smoke. -Silvia Bergomi

Max Mara’s advanced take on sportswear comprised:
A nude palette of athletic basics, slim long sleeves, trench coats and suits
Clarity, consistency and distinctive clean lines as the foundation for color fusion
The integration of stripes and magnetic color blocking in vibrant violet, arresting orange, canary yellow and fire-engine red
A well-tailored sailor in nautical stripes, jackets with metal buttons, oversized cape dresses and palazzo pants with high slits
The unexpected allure of open-back cutouts on suits and dresses
-Chaunielle Brown

Blumarine’s Butterfly Wings
A vibrant lightness drawn by nature recreates the curves of the body
The ethereal beauty of the butterfly translates into voluminous and fluid shapes of silk jersey and crépe chiffon
Chunky oversized jewelry with savage symbols and Zodiac signs on chameleon prints
Marshmallow colors with psychedelic brown dots
Jersey crepe, stretch silk faille, suede and leather
-Elisa Lusso

A tomboy attitude, unforgettable marigold glasses and a cool, confident swagger characterized the Dsquared2 collection. A sheen of decadent anticipation gave way to an Art Deco living room, which served as a minimalist background for twin designers Dean and Dan Caten’s modern day Nancy Drew, who wore simplistic neutrals with occasional sparks of color, fedoras and preppy plaid-like blends. Embellishments added a feminine touch to boyish basics: blazers, v-neck sweaters, slacks and biker jackets—even the strapless gowns were paired with men’s oxfords, rather than high heels. -Chaunielle Brown