Tie it, snap it, wrap it, drape it. Polish designer Karolina Zmarlak’s first ready-to-wear collection is an alluring series of shape-shifting essentials. Titled “Fluid Foundations,” the fall collection’s ultra-modern tech fabrics and intelligent designs can each be sculpted and styled to construct an endless array of avant-garde forms.
After working with Theory and Carolina Herrera, the FIT-educated Zmarlak began designing custom clothing for private clients, but she felt this experience should be extended to more than just the fashion elite. Thus, Fluid Foundations—a collection designed to be personalized—was born.
“You’re sculpting your body. You take yourself through a process each time you wear it,” said Zmarlak as she manipulated the sheer overlay of a malleable cropped jacket.
Created for a modern woman with a forward edge, each piece in the collection is reversible. Dresses, coats and tunics can be flipped and folded to expose alternative textures, fabrics or colorways. Grosgrain ribbon and stylish snaps transform an evening gown into a Grecian cocktail look, a color-blocked smock into a structured wrap dress.
Fabric technology also inspired the designer, who utilized a material she calls “power net” to create pencil skirts, leggings and dresses that bind the body to “showcase the good parts on all of us and hide the bad.” One of the collection’s most intriguing pieces, however, was not inspired by form or function, but rather by waiters Zmarlak encountered during her adventures in Spain.
“The people working at the restaurants had these amazing pants. They would wrap them in the most unique ways.” Her fascination manifested itself in the baggy, taffeta “Martos” pant that can be rolled at the cuff, fanned at the waist and cinched with an attached leather belt. “These pants become their own animal!” giggled the designer while scrunching a wave of taffeta.
But it’s not just the pants that have a life of their own; it’s the whole collection. Zmarlak believes, “If a woman has the attitude, it gives her an extra edge.” Fluid Foundations has that attitude. It has an edge and it is definitely a promising debut.
