Heading to the SoHo Grand to attend a master makeup class taught by Alex Box, Creative Director of the London-based cosmetics company Illamasqua, I knew I was in for an eye-opening experience, literally. Having previously seen her work, I was excited but had no idea what was in store, as Alex’s artistic training comes from the Chelsea College or Art & Design instead of a beauty school.
The artist’s unconventional background was evident in her approach to teaching. She did not dictate how to apply the makeup, but rather demonstrated its possibilities and empowered us to play on our own, like we did as kids. She encouraged us to create looks that mirror our “alter ego,” a term that is fittingly part of Illamasqua’s tagline: Night time makeup for your alter ego. But there’s no true dark side to Illamasqua. The products are high-quality and cruelty-free, advocating self-expression sans harm.
This point-of-view is also captured in the captivating short animated film Dark Angel (featured below), which was commissioned by the brand. The work of award-winning French director Fursy Teyssier, with music by Portishead, the film honors the tragic true story of Sophie Lancaster, a girl who was beaten to death for her alternative look. In addition to honoring Sophie’s memory with the film and enabling self-expression through its products, Illamasqua donates a portion of the proceeds from its S.O.P.H.I.E. pencil to the Sophie Lancaster Foundation, which focuses on creating respect for individuality.
This night, Alex showed us how she expresses her own individuality. Starting with a fresh-faced model primed with foundation, she defined deep arching brows, noting: “It’s dark; it’s not black, but it’s blue.” She also unexpectedly used a lip brush to start the process and a brow brush to finish it. She could have stopped there, having already transformed the face. Instead, using the same Illamasqua multiuse product (the cream-based Liquid Metal in Superior), she highlighted the model’s eyes with a metallic blue wash. You can control the intensity of blendable products, she informed us, through application and the right tools. A touch of originality and the use of setting powder also help.
Next she contoured the complexion, sweeping on Illamasqua’s pinky blush and brushing its shimmery highlighter under the brows and onto the subtle angles of the face. She even added the light-catching powder to the lips, a little trick that made them appear glossed and primed for the application of her perfect bespoke red lipstick, Box. Amazing. But the most innovative part came when Alex polished off the look by cutting a stencil out of notebook paper and using vibrant powders to fashion shapes around the face and neck. In this case, the silhouettes recalled the Queen of Hearts, which seemed definitively appropriate for an individual who has developed a career by putting her heart into her work. Finally, she left us with these words of artistic wisdom: “If you can believe it, you can inspire others.”
I departed the evening with makeup to create my own alter ego: a peachy blush called Lover, a lovely lilac shadow named Creep, black eyeliner cake and Alex’s creamy red lipstick, which I daringly wore the next day on my bare face. Feeling extremely empowered, pretty and very French, I traipsed through my normal New York routine. Plus, the lipstick lasted all day, even without the brand’s special Sealing Gel. Never having worn a stark scarlet lip before, I am hooked on the product and converted to thinking outside the box, not only in my art but also with my makeup, which I learned is also my art. Sometimes all it takes is somebody else’s creative courage to fire up your own.
Illamasqua is now available Stateside at Sephora.
