
Kick off my fashion week with an esoteric cinematic extravaganza? Don’t mind if I do!
Set in the stark back room of Chelsea’s Eyebeam Gallery, Kuho Jung’s Hexa by Kuho show was preceded by the premier of Nick Knight’s latest conceptual endeavor. Projected onto three white slabs, which were evenly spaced across the stage, Knight’s film featured model Ranya Mordanova performing what seemed to be at once fluid and spastic ritualistic dance moves through a series fractured frames.
The film continued as the models took the stage, each girl pacing between the maze of white monoliths as if they were in some type of ancient cult. Achieving a calm yet eerie mood, Jung set the tone brilliantly for his religion-inspired looks. Titled Tapi (which in English means ecdysis or in laymen’s terms, the shedding of a reptile’s skin ) the collection was “about mixing all the world’s different religions together. It’s about shedding your skin; shedding it to be a better human being,” explained the designer.
Featuring recycled elements from Jung’s own wardrobe of suits, which he deconstructed into impeccably draped womenswear, the collection took on a muted palette of blacks, creams, greys and dusty browns. Blazers were transformed into skirts and gowns, their oragamied arms and shoulders creating an appealing bustle effect. Asymmetrical drop-crotch wool pants, one pair of which featured a fan of three separate waistbands, were paired with swathed jerseys and structured jackets (a black pleated, poof-sleeve version was a certain stand-out) and each of the geometric looks was completed with the sweetest Victorian-inspired button-up booties and flower-tipped pumps.
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