What fun it was to sit through Cushnie et Ochs’ tactile Fall adventure. Inspired by the punctured metals and sometimes sharp, sometimes swirling lines of British artist Tony Cragg’s sculptures, the show was an experiment in texture—and a successful one at that. “We still have our jerseys and our drapes, but we really wanted a collection of textures,” explained the giggling design duo backstage. “And we opted to stay with a muted palette because we wanted the textures to speak for themselves.”
Pony hair was in abundance, appearing on the opening black dress as well as a tailored double-faced wool coat, the lines of which dipped and curved in harmony with the contours of the body. Leather skirts, blouses and jackets were crinkled or perforated to create a playful polka-dot effect and grey fox fur added a sassy sense of luxury to a knobby knit jacket and sleek black dinner coat. Accents like curved,structured flaps on a deep-v blazer and a cream mini dress, along with industrial leather cloches the designers dubbed “the sculpture beanies,” brought a hint of futurism, while a selection of chiffon blouses paired with smart pencil skirts and a black cashmere sweater dress embroidered with delicate black lace embraced classic Parisian sex appeal.
Things got decidedly rowdy when sparkles, jewel embroidery and black, spiked leather gloves came into play. There was also a series of ostrich-feather tops that weren’t completely wearable, but their swaying sea anemone-esque movements (I’m not crazy, you must see them) were completely memorizing. A virtual rollercoaster of fabrics, tastes and silhouettes, the collection was certainly a busy one, but the neutral palette and a sassy thread of confidence seamlessly tied it together.
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Images courtesy of nymag.