Images by Brandie Raasch. Text by Jess Whyte and Katharine Zarrella.
Show: Viktor & Rolf
Date: October 1, 2011
Time: 1:30 pm
Venue: Espace Ephémère Tuileries
Inspiration: Dolls
Music: A live performance by the French pop duo Brigette.
Favorite Look: A dress with netted teal peek-a-boo details paired with a midnight blue trench, the exaggerated collar of which was garnished with swirling cutouts. Although, the round gold Willy (or, perhaps, Wilma?) Wonka sunglasses paired with a ruffled lilac dress, mustn’t go unmentioned.
Additional Notes: As the music started at Viktor & Rolf’s show, it took a moment to realize that the angelic voices were coming from the pop due Brigette who, in true V&R style, were raised approximately 20 feet above the stage on giant pink gowns cum platforms. From beneath the singer’s sky-high skirts, models in candy-colored, doll-inspired frocks and coats paraded down the catwalk. Exaggerated features, like ultra cinched waists, big hair bows, super girly skirts and oversized ribbon garnishes, which were loop-stitched through hems and darts, as well as tiered gowns and dresses elevated the feeling that we were inside some kind of haute Barbie Dream House. And fishnet detailing brought an at-once-sophisticated-and-perverse feel to the hyper-feminine pink, bright blue, red and lilac collection. -KZ
Show: Elie Saab
Date: October 5, 2011
Time: 4:30pm
Venue: Espace Ephémère Tuileries
Inspiration: Color Shock
Music: Who needs music when you have an enthusiastic photographer’s thunderous whistle?
Favorite Look: The emerald sequin gowns
Additional Notes: To sum up the Elie Saab show in a single word, wouldn’t be nearly as effective as summing it up in a sound effect: the wolf-whistle. Firstly, it was the deafening noise coming from of an over enthusiastic photographer as Anja Rubik (the show’s first face) made her appearance in a plunging white gown with delicate waist belt and seemingly endless slit. The photographer’s whistle was more significant than one might have first realized. It was only after the initial delicate white numbers—soft flowing chiffon blouses, lace topped dresses and tailored trousers—gave way to an unexpected wave of color that the audience sat up and took note. Mustard yellow, emerald greens and lapis blue were all represented in day and evening looks. In recent seasons, Elie stepped gingerly into the ready-to-wear waters, but this collection has shone a spotlight on the designer’s impressive talents. -JW
Backstage at Elie Saab.
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Costume National
Caravan
Agnès B
Paco Rabbane
Eli Saab
Peachoo Krejberg
Vanessa Bruno
