Ohne Title, along with Y-3, Gregory Parkinson, Parkchoomoo, J. Sabatino and Chris Benz. Images by Samantha Casolari.
Ohne Titel is known for their laser-cut futurism; appropriately then, their inspiration for Fall 2011 came from Apollo-era spacesuits. Playing in the grey area between sportswear and art, designers Flora Gill and Alexa Adams incorporated shearling, monochromatic grey knits with pops of fire engine red, utilitarian spiral zippers and architectural blazers placed atop layers of flouncy chiffon. -Stefania Yarhi
Gregory Parkinson considers himself…
Click “Read More” for additional images.
Ohne Title
…first and foremost a textile designer. Therefore, branching out for his first Fall collection, he worked with jewel-hued brocades and metallic tweeds, thoughtfully layering the heavy textures. “I really wanted to design for special occasions,” said Parkinson. “It’s really about making great items—about a freshness and an ease. It’s about being special.”
Not far off in inspiration, Korean Parkchoonmoo displayed color, cut and clarity. The first looks were voluminous duvet-looking coats. Metallic gold and silvers were connected by tarnished bronze threads. Looks were layered and layered with opaque fabrics and peek-a-boo cuts—each piece evolving as designer Choonmoo Park developed her avant-garde designs.
At J. Sabatino in the most adorable Connelly Theater in the East Village, a lone accordion player serenaded the audience, who watched as the models filed out. The inspiration was drifters and nomads, rumpled romantics and carnies—fashions torn from the pages of Huckleberry Finn. Sabatino played with denim dungarees, ponchos, trenchcoats and wool peacoats in a muted earth palette. Each piece seemed to have been washed in dirt, and would the modern vagrant have it any other way?
Beginning with a thunderstorm rumbling, Y-3′s models…
Out on the town
…came down the runway in red-and-blue plaid coats and long skirts signifying a Scottish influence. The male models were sheathed in toggle coats and industrial-strength garments accessorized by large pockets. Arm and leg warmers in red and blue and the overall constructed/deconstructed aesthetic underlined the innovative sportswear sensibility that has come to signify designer Yohji Yamamoto’s reign at Adidas. – Jayme Cyk
An entirely different take on plaid, Chris Benz’s models displayed big checks of plaid on floral ruffle-adorned dresses topped with oversized Kentucky Derby hats. Unsurprisingly, Benz was inspired by Savannah, Georgia and the Old Southern decorum. Explaining his imaginary girl, the designer clarified, “She’s very practical and American. And I love those girls who don’t take themselves too seriously.” While viewing the Southern comfort, I spotted my personal style icon, Debbie Harry—an incredible end to a phenomenal collection. – JC
Y-3
