Felder Felder. Images by Cara Stricker. Text by Katharine Zarrella.
Date: September 19, 2011
Venue: The Royal Courts of Justice
Inspiration: Andy Warhol, Cecil Beaton, Cecil’s “A Symphony in Silver” and swans, both the avian and society variety.
Music: A mix of HTRK, SCUMM and Bram Stoker’s Dracula, curated by Pulp’s Steve Mackey
Favorite Look: Smart black tuxedo pants paired with a sheer black high-collared blouse and a Stephen Jones’ black swan headdress and mask.
Additional Notes: Giles Deacon’s runway spectacles never disappoint, and this season the designer followed his influences quite literally. Against a backdrop of crumpled silver, which closely mimicked that of “A Symphony in Silver,” a 1925 photograph Cecil snapped of his sister, Baba, Giles’ models marched out in laser-cut silver leather skirts, frocks and jackets, prim and proper vintage-style party dresses and a range of swan-printed looks. Ostrich feathers abounded on gowns and coats, and the three Stephen Jones-designed swan headdresses in black, white and red represented the dynamic and sometimes violent beauty of human nature.
Show: Felder Felder
Date: September 16, 2011
Venue: Freemason’s Hall
Inspiration: A balance between femininity, sex appeal and punk
Music: Smashing Pumpkin’s dance remix, with a “Wham Bam, Thank You Ma’am!” thrown in before the finale.
Favorite Look: A flirty black-and-white ink blot-print skirt paired with a matching turquoise top and a mint green leather-and-chainlink harness.
Additional Notes: Combining sweet, feminine chiffon looks with rock ‘n’ roll studs and harnesses, the Felder twins walked the line between girlish innocence and rebellious sexuality. Flouncy metallic leather circle skirts and matching backpacks recalled Alicia Silverstone in Clueless, while a sheer spike-embellished body-con dress paired with a leather jacket, as well as knit crop-tops and dog collars, channeled the spirit of a ’90s Courtney Love.
Show: TopShop Unique
Date: September 18, 2011
Venue: The TopShop Show Space at the Old Eurostar Terminal
Inspiration: Ancient Egypt meets urban London, and Elizabeth Taylor as Cleopatra
Music: “Walk Like an Egyptian” played pre-show while the famished fashion set snacked on beef stew over mashed potatoes (shhh, don’t tell). Then models rocked down the runway to the greatest rap hits from the early 2000s (think Jay Z’s “99 Problems,” Ashanti, and the like).
Favorite Look: A striped Eye of Providence hooded bathing suit paired with a light weight, floor length white coat, a black-and-gold striped cap and strappy platform sandals fit for fête in the Sahara.
Additional Notes: Blending vintage Egyptian glamour, hieroglyphic prints reminiscent of Keith Haring graffiti and a streetwise edge, Unique’s spring collection was a kick-back to old-school ’90s hip hop. Gold abounded—there were gold athletic shorts shown with a printed-gold hoodie, gold Cleopatra necklaces, gold bustiers, gold-printed dresses, gold long-billed “rude boy” caps, gold paste in the models’ hair, gold on the runway…you get the idea. Sheer striped dresses and jumpsuits shown with chunky platform sandals furthered the ’90s vibe, and an oversized sweatshirt printed with the face of Elizabeth Taylor as Cleopatra on the front and her hair on the back was an at once clever and thoughtful homage to the late legend.
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