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Chronicles of London Fashion Week – SS12: Ashish, House of Holland & Craig Lawrence

Ashish. Images by Cara Stricker. Text by Katharine Zarrella.

Show: Ashish
Date: September 17, 2011
Time: 11am
Venue: BFC Catwalk
Inspiration: Flowers, chintzy Laura Ashley curtains and vintage grannie scarves
Music: Church bells at the beginning, Tears for Fears’ “Everybody Wants to Rule The World” at the end, with smoky, jazzy beats and a ukulele in between.
Favorite Look: 
A billowy white French marigold print maxi-dress, paired with a sequined brick-print blazer, black combat boots stuffed with real daises and a simple straw fedora.
Additional Notes: While each daisy and sunflower painted on Ashish’s sequined collection radiated sunny optimism, the designer noted that he looked to flowers because he was “feeling romantic, a bit sad and melancholic.” However, despite his mellow mood (it should be noted that the designer was chipper as ever backstage after the show), Ashish’s collection of baggy sequined shorts, high-waisted poppy-embellished oversized jeans, brick-print jackets and sometimes sex-kitten, sometimes bohemian flower frocks left his audience smiling. The black combat boots stuffed with real daisies, which accompanied each look, gave the collection a grungy ’90s feel, although the designer’s intention was for the boots to add pagan overtones. Of his spring woman, Ashish says, “I think she’s fun and tough.” Judging by the clothes, she’s the perfect balance of both.

Show: House of Holland
Date: September 17, 2011
Time: 4pm
Venue: The Dairy
Inspiration: Skins and Punks, ska revival and a South Beach/Miami palette
Music: Bad Manners’ “Skinhead Girl,” “Bam Bam” by Sister Nancy, “Too Much Too Young” by The Specials and a range of other ska tunes mixed by The Misshapes
Favorite Look: Pale blue bleach-splattered high-waisted jeans with snakeskin suspenders and a color-blocked purple, peach and minty green blouse.
Additional Notes: Henry Holland’s pastel punk extravaganza was an upbeat display of looks made for a good girl gone bad and, perhaps, gone good again. Black oversized leopard spots were sprayed across pink, lavender, sherbet or aqua jeans, jumpsuits, flirty frocks and a pleated degradér maxi gown. Sweet rock ‘n’ roll dresses were paired with ripped fishnets and snakeskin accents popped in the form of suspenders, belts and smart collars. The “House of Holland tartan,” was revived on schoolgirl skirts and playful suiting, and a pair of snakeskin pants that zipped off into short-shorts were especially hardcore. One particularly cheeky model in a sheer fishnet top treated the audience to a wink before sticking out her tongue. And the devilish smile that crept up her face as she strutted back up the runway emblemized the giggling punkette at the heart of Henry’s collection.

Show: Craig Lawrence
Date: September 17, 2011
Time: 2:15 pm
Venue: The Portico Rooms at Somerset House
Inspiration: Martin Parr’s photographs of the British seaside and, according to the British Fashion Council, a bit of vajazzling
Music: None, rather descriptions of each detailed look echoed over the speakers
Favorite Look: A sheer metallic-rose gold knit gown with Swarovski-embelished, high-waisted panties.
Additional Notes: In a palette of rose gold, cream and sea foam, Craig Lawrence’s seaside-inspired spring featured tactile hand-knit sweaters and dresses, paired with chunky ribbed leggings or gold textured tights and slashed swimming caps. From cool tunics that were knit to look as though they were made from chainmail to the striated body-con finale look, whose loose threads gave it a distressed, carefree summer vibe, the designer’s collection was as cool and serene as a stroll down a misty beach.

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House of Holland

Craig Lawrence

One Comment

  1. Posted October 8, 2011 at 7:38 am | Permalink

    Hi, this is a great post! Thanks..

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