Jazz Fest–the name puts some people off. But the full name–New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival–still doesn’t begin to describe the seven days of music that takes over New Orleans for two long weekends at the end of April (this year’s festival runs from April 24-26, resuming April 30-May 3). There’s more music than you can imagine, but for those who need even more, there’s the two-day Ponderosa Stomp on Tuesday and Wednesday, April 28-29 and, of course, music all day and night at bars, restaurants, clubs, record stores, or just on the street.
Since there are close to 65 acts every day on the ten stages set up on the New Orleans Fairgrounds, there’s no way to ever see them all. The location and staggered start times are available in a chart (the cubes), but marking one’s cubes is only a start. Sometimes the music you stumble upon when headed to hear the band you thought you had to see turns out to be the most magical.
Wilco was high on my list, but when I couldn’t get into the show, I headed off to see Johnny Winter. On the way, I passed the Fais-Do-Do stage, where accordionist Dwaine Dopsey & the Zydeco Hellraisers were performing. That was it, I couldn’t go anywhere else, and had to stay and marvel and dance. I’d seen his brother, washboard player extraordinaire Rockin’ Dopsey Jr., on Thursday. Their father, Rockin’ Sr., was the most famous of the lot, but all four of his sons (Tiger on drums and Anthony on accordion in Rockin’ Jr’s band The Zydeco Twisters) are carrying on just fine.
And this after seeing Pete Seeger celebrating his 90th birthday with grandson Tao and assorted family and friends; the Dixie Cups (remember “Going to the Chapel”?); Roy Haines, elder statesman of jazz drumming whose playing was as fresh as that of the astonishingly talented youngster playing with him; Sonny Landreth, who many consider to be one of the best slide guitar players on the planet; Earth, Wind & Fire; and my own favorite surprise, the New Orleans Spiritualettes at the Gospel Tent–you get the picture.
Oh, and the food. Let’s just say, this ain’t your ballpark fare. It’s the best of Louisiana: affordable and delicious. Don’t miss Prejean’s pheasant, quail & andouille gumbo!
Next weekend’s lineup includes Neil Young, Ben Harper, Tony Bennett, the Dirty Dozen Brass Band, Dr. John, and, of course, the Neville Brothers (together and with their separate bands). So, call in sick, book a flight, find a place to stay, and come on down to the party.
Photo by Karen J. Dolan
